Chichén Itzá and Tulum

Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula doesn’t exactly fit our globetrotting theme of hard-to-reach places. It’s home to Cancún and Cozumel, two of Mexico’s biggest draws for beach resorts, and is pretty easy to get to for a long weekend from the States. Even further south where we are staying in Tulum, the area is rapidly becoming more developed and mainstream. So why are we here?

DSC08403
Tulum coastline

Well touristy or not, it’s still a pretty delightful area to be. The winter weather is perfect, food is cheap and delicious (if you eat like a local), and the beaches are indeed lovely. And there’s diving! We’d briefly been to Tulum before and thought it would be a good place for us to unwind and gear up for getting back into the real world, polish up the resume et cetera – so when Elaine became interested in a yoga instructor course here that sealed the deal.

DSC08418
watching pelicans fishing is (for me) endlessly entertaining

Tulum isn’t perfect: the area is undergoing rampant development and unfortunately not all of it is done responsibly. Garbage and wastewater management are big problems. Being here a little longer, and seeing dramatic changes from just 15 months earlier, has helped me understand how easily the situation could be spiraling downward; it’s a problem shared with many other beautiful places around the world as more and more people – like ourselves! – find the means to travel. There are lots of strategies to try avoiding being part of the problem and that’s not my topic here, but certainly awareness is a big first step.

OK rather than talk about issues of modern society, let’s talk about the ruins of old ones! The Yucatán was home to the Mayans who along with their calendar left some pretty cool stuff to see. Last time we were here we visited Cobá, a former city not far from Tulum, and Tulum has ruins all of its own, but the big name in the area is Chichén Itzá. It’s only a couple hours outside of Cancún so it’s pretty touristy, but with time to spare we definitely wanted to make sure we saw it this time.

DSC08374

Most people shuttle back and forth on long day trips, spending the hottest and busiest parts of the day at the site. We opted to stay nearby which was a great idea. We were there when the gates opened and headed straight for Chichén Itzá’s most famous structure, the step pyramid now called El Castillo – which we had all to ourselves!

DSC08299

DSC08302

A better name for the pyramid is the Temple of Kukulcan, to whom the temple was dedicated and who’s feathered snakelike visage adorns the staircases. Like many sights we’ve seen while traveling, images of this temple had already been burned pretty deep in my head; yet up close the real thing quickly tops any photos. It’s very aesthetically pleasing and I especially liked the rounded corners of each tier which make the steps appear much more natural.

20180226_145726

DSC08307

DSC08309

20180226_145836

There’s a lot more to Chichén Itzá than El Castillo. Unfortunately access is a lot more restricted here than to other sites we’ve visited so it’s hard (or impossible) to get up close looks at a lot of the structures and carvings. But there’s still plenty to see! I won’t regurgitate everything from Wikipedia here though. Here are some photos instead.

DSC08313
Temple of the Warriors (who are carved on all of the columns)

DSC08316

DSC08317

DSC08327
The Osario Temple, a smaller pyramid, is built over a cavern where human remains were found

20180226_145954

DSC08332

DSC08340
El Caracol or The Observatory

DSC08348

DSC08352

DSC08363
carvings at the entrance to the Great Ballcourt, where the Mayans played their ritualistic sport which sometimes culminated in beheadings
DSC08365
goal ring in the ballcourt. It’s pretty high up…
DSC08368
temple at the end of the ballcourt with paintings surviving inside
DSC08375.jpg
Tzompantli (rack of skulls)
DSC08379
Eat your heart out! Carvings of jaguars and eagles eating, yup, hearts
DSC08385
iguana basking on a Chac Mool rain god statue
20180226_150112
back to the main plaza to watch the tourists all take the same tacky photo

DSC08388

That’s it for this post! Hope it brought you some sunshine and enough – but not too much – of a dose of ancient civilization. And now, a photo of a far more ancient lifestyle and a pretty good job location to boot: fishing in the surf!

DSC08400